Tips to Acoustic Guitar Tabs for Beginners

unduhan-12Acoustic guitar is a standout amongst the most resonant instruments that can be aced effectively with the assistance of basic finger practices for novices. This article gives some concise and simple tabs for acoustic guitar; begineers will without a doubt advantage from these activities to wind up better guitar players.

The acoustic guitar is pretty easy to play with the help of regular practice and patient hard work. Nowadays, many people select this instrument, and randomly start playing and strumming it, without actually realizing the importance of notations, and the beauty represented by every single note, scale, and chord.

Knowing Your Instrument

It is an absolute necessity to have a good knowledge about your instrument, even before you undertake any of the guitar lessons. An acoustic guitar has 6 strings placed in descending order according to the scale and pitch. It means that from the resonance and scale point of view, the first string from the top is the ‘lowest’ note that can be played on the instrument, and on the other hand, the bottommost string is the ‘highest’ one that can be played. It is also important that you study the parts of this instrument while learning the guitar tabs, especially the neck and sound hole. The strings of the guitar when played ‘open’ (without pressing any fret), would give you the notes E, A, D, G, B, and E (higher).

Exploring the Fretboard

If you take a look at the fretboard, you would notice that the frets become smaller and smaller in an ascending fashion, towards the guitar’s body. It means that broader the fret, lower is the note, and smaller the fret, higher is the note. The strings as mentioned give the notation E, A, D, G, B, E when played open. The next step is to figure out which fret would give you which note. The following diagram would help you to understand the fretboard. Note that the guitar tabs are written in a similar manner, and the first string in the diagram is the lowermost one, i.e., E (higher E) on the actual guitar.

Fret No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
open E F F# G G# A A# B C C# D D# E
open B C C# D D# E F F# G G# A A# B
open G G# A A# B C C# D D# E F F# G
open D D# E F F# G G# A A# B C C# D
open A A# B C C# D D# E F F# G G# A
open E F F# G G# A A# B C C# D D# E

Free Acoustic Guitar Tabs for Beginners

One of the key aspects that is to be studied very sincerely, is the development of your fingers. This aspect can be classified into 3 types, namely the development of fret pressing, alternate fret playing, and crisscross fret playing.

Fret Pressing
The following exercise would help you to develop your grip over the guitar’s neck. It is necessary to practice this exercise as frequently and regularly as possible. Practicing these beginner acoustic guitar tabs in a disciplined timing and rhythm is also important. For this, you can also use a metronome.

E——————————————————-1-2-3-4-|
B———————————————1-2-3-4———–|
G———————————–1-2-3-4———————|
D————————-1-2-3-4——————————-|
A—————1-2-3-4—————————————–|
E—–1-2-3-4—————————————————|

E——————————————————-5-6-7-8-|
B———————————————5-6-7-8———–|
G———————————–5-6-7-8———————|
D————————-5-6-7-8——————————-|
A—————5-6-7-8—————————————–|
E—–5-6-7-8—————————————————|

The numbers indicate the fret number. You may also try out the same exercise for higher frets i.e., the ones that precede fret no. 8, and also for all the strings.

Alternate Fret Pressing
This also is another very important finger exercise for beginners, and provided below are the steps.

E——————————————-2–4—-|
B————————————1–3———–|
G—————————–2–4——————|
D———————-1–3————————-|
A—————2–4——————————–|
E——-1—3—————————————|

E—————————————-2–4—–|
B——————————–1–3—–1–3—|
G———————-2–4—-2–4————–|
D————–1–3—–1–3———————|
A——-2–4—-2–4—————————–|
E—–1–3—————————————-|

Crisscross Fret Playing
This exercise would help you to co-ordinate the motion of all your four playing fingers.

E—————————-|
B—————————-|
G————–4-4———-|
D————3—–3——–|
A———2———-2——|
E——-1—————1—|

E——1————–1–|
B——–2———2—–|
G———-3—–3——-|
D————4-4———|
A————————-|
E————————-|

It is an extremely important exercise, due to the fact that it helps you to develop a coordination between all you fingers, and also between your right and left hand.

Once you have developed a reasonable amount of finger strength, you can proceed to learn the guitar tabs, chords, and scales. While playing the chords and scales, you may refer to the notation chart that has been provided above. For exploration of the fretboard, and for developing the sense of scales, you can also undertake some exercises such as playing all the C#’s or F’s on the fretboard. This is a highly effective exercise as the note sounds are registered by your ear. No matter which guitar tabs you refer to, developing your ear for the tune is extremely important.

The last tip that I wish to give you is to feel every scale and chord that you play, because each and every notation that is present in there, is full of life!

History of the Acoustic Guitar

The melancholic sound of an acoustic guitar has fascinated individuals everywhere throughout the world. This instrument involves an indispensable position in the combination of music, and has a critical past.

An acoustic guitar produces a dynamic sound through the vibration of strings, which are played with a plectrum or with fingers. The guitar body is hollow, and it resonates the sound after the tension that is applied on the strings is released. The sound intensity and amplitude depends on the exertion of pressure on the strings.

An acoustic guitar’s body varies depending upon its size and make. Hollow bodies produce a deep and thick sound, which is not possible with the ones that have a relatively flat soundboard. The type and quality of strings that are used also determines the sound quality and crispness of this instrument. Although they are used without any amplification, you can amplify them by using microphones or pick-ups. Some companies also manufacture them with inbuilt plug-in jacks, to connect them to electric amplifiers. Some of the most commonly used guitar types are the steel string, the nylon string (classical guitar), and the lap-steel string guitars.

The classical guitar is basically played with finger-style plucking, and it has been there since the 1700’s. Earlier, catgut strings were used for this guitar, but now, nylon strings are used. The steel string guitars are the most common and modern type of acoustic guitars. They are mostly played with the help of a plectrum/pick, and these instruments can produce a loud and vibrant sound. The lap-steel string guitar is played by pressing a glass or metal slider/bar against the strings instead of pressing them with fingers. This instrument has two types: Lap slide guitars and Resonator guitars.

Origin and History

The word “guitar” has been derived from the name “chartar” in Old Persian, which means “four strings”. The oldest existing guitar-like instrument, which was discovered in Egypt, is now kept in the Archeological museum in Cairo. It belonged to the Egyptian singer called Har-Mose. This instrument had three strings, and a plectrum was attached to the neck with the help of a cord. Polished cedar wood was used to make the guitar’s body, and it could possibly be one of the most ancient string instruments to be preserved.

Although the exact dates about the existence of the acoustic guitar is inconclusive and controversial, its history dates back to 1200 AD, when two versions of a four-stringed guitar evolved. The first one was the Moorish Guitar, which consisted of several sound holes, and had an oval-shaped rounded body along with a very wide fretboard. The other version was the Guitarra Latina (which means Latin Guitar), which had one sound hole, and a relatively narrower neck. The depiction of an instrument, which displayed the characteristics of a guitar can be found on the stone carving of a Hittite bard, which dates around 3,300 years old. Several Egyptian wall paintings also show people who are playing guitar-like instruments.

The origin of the guitar can be traced back to thousands of years to central Asia and India, where the use of stringed instruments such as Persian setar and tanbur, and even bowl harps led to the evolution of similar and advanced guitar types. During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, the Spanish vihuela, a guitar-like instrument with twelve paired strings that are tuned like a lute, led to a transitional development of the modern guitar types.

During the Baroque era, a guitar that was much smaller than the modern type was used extensively. This lightweight instrument made the use of gut strings, which were also used as fret marks that were tied to the guitar’s neck. In parts of Europe, the Scandinavian lut (indigenous six string lute) that is similar to a guitar, gained much prominence and demand. This instrument was introduced to the central European regions by the “Moors”, especially in Spain. It has many strings and a short neck, with a pear-shaped body.

Gaetano Vinaccia, who came from a family of luthiers, was accomplished at constructing mandolins. He is believed to have made the first six-string guitar in 1779 in Naples, Italy. The renaissance and baroque guitars, which are considered as the ancestors of the classical guitars, generated much delicate sounds as compared to the modern classical counterparts. They were used as rhythm accompaniments, unlike the modern classical guitar, which is used as an accompaniment and solo instrument. The credit for establishing the design and construction of the first modern classical guitar goes to Antonio Torres Jurado in the 1850s. The superior quality of his instruments and tone that they produced, made him one of the most revered luthiers among the musicians of his time. The tuning pegs of this instrument in the 18th and 19th centuries were made from bone and wood.

Gradually, after the 16th century, this four-stringed instrument evolved to a five string one, and ultimately to a modern six-stringed instrument. The five string guitar was extensively worked upon by Antonio Stradivarius in the late 1600s, and at the start of the 1700s, this instrument started being available with six strings, with the Italians being the primary developers. By early 1900s, steel strings came into the picture and guitars with X-braced tops were made by Christian Fredrich Martin. Around the 1920s, Orville Gibson started making archtop guitars that has oval sound holes, and around the same time jazz guitars were being developed by Lloyd Loar in collaboration with Gibson. After some years, when electric pickups were invented, the first electric guitar was made around 1950s, and some of the biggest names in the guitar manufacturing industry like Paul Bigsby, Les Paul, and Leo Fender, played a major role in this scenario. Today, Les Paul, Gibson, and Fender are some of the largest guitar manufacturing companies in the world.

The craftsmanship of acoustic guitars has evolved over the years, and guitar luthiers are building custom-made guitars for musicians all over the world. The tradition and style of various acoustic guitar players is encompassed beautifully in the strains of their music. The roots and history of acoustic guitars has contributed significantly in the construction and design ideas of modern guitars, which created and still continue to have a magnetic effect on people all over the world.

Before Buying a Used Electric Guitar

Purchasing an electric guitar is an entirely intense errand, particularly for a learner. It is crucial to touch upon every one of the angles required in this business to keep a terrible buy. On the off chance that you are purchasing a second-hand electric guitar, then this post can offer assistance.

A wise step while looking for used electric guitars would be to collect as much information about the instrument as possible. This should include knowledge about the serial number of the instrument, in case you want some additional information about it from the manufacturer, the modifications done to it, like replacement of pick-ups, strings, change in paint and so on. Secondly, it is important for you to ask (if buying from a private seller) why he wants to sell his guitar and if he purchased it new or used.

Check the Condition of the Guitar

Body

There are three designs in the body of an electric guitar – solid body, semi-hollow body, and hollow body. Your selection of the body depends on your playing style. As a beginner, you do not have to bother too much about the body, and hence can begin by selecting a solid body. Once you are thorough with basic lessons and ready for advanced learning you can choose some other body for your guitar.

Neck Construction

The neck is the most important as well as the moat delicate part of an electric guitar. Firstly, you will have to check for any damage – like a crack along the neck or the area between the neck and the head. The point where the neck joins the body of the guitar is also important to check for cracks as it might result in the complete breaking of the guitar. Some scratches here and there on the surface or the finish of the instrument are not a major concern as they don’t affect the sound quality. But cracks that have gone deep into the structure will definitely amount to a bigger problem in the sound and you may have to replace the neck. Also, if the neck is a little warped or bowed do not include the instrument in your selection list.

Apart from the above concerns, you also need to check out the types of guitar necks and choose the appropriate one. Basically there are three ways in which the neck is connected to the body – set neck, bolt-on neck, and neck through the body. The first type of neck is glued to the body permanently. Gibson guitars are a perfect example of set neck guitars. These models are quite expensive as compared to others and are also difficult to repair. The second type, i.e., the bolt-on neck, is attached to the body with the help of bolts or screws starting from the back of the body and penetrating into the back of the neck. This neck attachment reduced the production cost of electric guitars and brought them in demand, since the bolts could be easily adjusted or even replaced. Fender guitars are seen with this method of neck attachment. The third type is neck through the body, wherein the neck is an integral part of the body constructed out of one single piece of wood or several pieces laminated together. The selection of an electric guitar also depends on the convenience of placing your fingers on it and moving from one fret to another. There are a few standard neck profiles from which you can select a suitable profile for yourself for ease in playing. These profiles are termed as C-shaped, U-shaped and V-shaped neck profiles. The shape of the letters roughly correspond to the shape of the profile.

Strings

There should not be any buzzing in the strings while playing the guitar – whether plugged or unplugged. The strings should also not go mute in between. The correct way to check the strings is to play the guitar before purchasing. It will help you identify any rattling or buzzing in the strings. If the guitar is used for a very long time you might notice rust on the strings and even slight breaking.

Bridges

A bridge is a part on the electric guitar that supports the strings, connects them to the body, and transfers the vibrations of the strings to the body to produce resonance and sustain. There are two basic types of bridges; stoptail or fixed bridges, and tremolo bridges. While fixed bridges are permanently attached to the body, tremolo ones are movable. With tremolo bridges you can bend all the strings at a time to attempt variations in notes, however, it can cause the guitar to go off-tune at times. Hence, many players prefer stoptail bridge which offers more controlled, in-tune and sustained notes. Consider all these factors and decide on which type of bridge your guitar should have.

Check the Sound Quality

Action

The word action here refers to the distance between the strings and the fret board. Ideally, the strings should be closer to the board, so that they can be pressed down easily to fret the notes, but not so close that they touch the board. If the strings are close enough to the board right from the head to the bridges, you can say that the guitar has a good or the correct action.

Scale Length

Scale length is the distance between the bridge and the nut. The point between these two parts is where the string vibrates. Scale length is a vital component of an electric guitar or any fretted instrument for that matter, because it affects the tonal quality as well as playability of the instrument. The two very common types of scale lengths are Fender scale 25-1/2″ (longer scale that provides higher string tension and a trebly sound) and Gibson scale 24-3/4″ (shorter scale and easy to play, which provides lower string tension and produces a little thick and less trebly sound). There are other scale lengths as well, but these two are the most preferred ones.

Intonation

Intonation is the accuracy of the fretted notes produced from the strings. For setting the intonation of the guitar, bridge saddles (the points on the bridge supporting individual strings) are moved either closer or away from the fret board till the octave on the 12th fret and its harmonics are equal. If an electric guitar is off-tune or is set in an incorrect intonation, the chords played at the bottom of the neck sound correct but the same chords played higher on the fret board sound a little off-tune. Another important thing is to check if the guitar is able to hold the tune for a few hours once set, or if you have to keep setting it frequently. When checking this though, keep in mind that every musical instrument needs intonation setting done from time to time. Make use of digital tuners to check the intonation for an accurate result.

Pick-ups

Pick-ups are magnetic devices that sense the musical vibrations of the strings in an electric form and pass electronic signals to the amplifier as well as speakers. There are two types of pick-ups – magnetic and piezoelectric – and both produce different sounds. It is very important to check these pick-ups while buying the instrument because they are pretty expensive to replace. If you are buying an electric guitar for yourself, then it is quite easy to examine the pick-ups. However, if you are purchasing it for someone else you will either have to take the person along with you or should know exactly what style of playing he/she prefers. The number of pick-ups also vary according to the model of the instrument. For some models there are two pick-ups – one close to the neck that produces a thicker sound and the other close to the bridge to get a treble sound effect. Some electric guitars also have a third pick-up in the middle, which adds to the sound blending combination.

Where to Buy?

Retail music stores are the most approachable destinations for buying used things. The people working there are well acquainted with the ins and outs of musical instruments and are able to give right suggestions. If you have access to such a local store nearby, do make a visit. If not, get in touch with a private seller, provided you ask all the questions mentioned in the introductory paragraph. Do not hesitate to voice your queries regarding the instrument and satisfy yourself before making the purchase. After all, it’s a one-time purchase and, of course, an important one in your music career. Another important point to note is the amplifier used for the electric guitar. When you are testing the sound quality of the guitar, use a quality amplifier available in the shop or borrow one from your friend. If the amplifier is not good it definitely affects the sound quality of the guitar. Nowadays even the Internet has become a great source for buying used stuff. Craigslist, eBay and other such sources are good options to check out.

A used electric guitar is a good option against buying a new one, not only because it costs less, but also because as a beginner you don’t have to invest too much just for trying your hand at it. Furthermore, if you are amongst the few lucky buyers, you might get a piece that is rare or out of production. Lastly, take your friend or someone knowledgeable in this field along to make the best buy.

How to Choosing the Right Guitar Amplifier

A decent guitar amp is important to get the right stable out. Regardless of the possibility that you purchase Fender Strat or a Les Paul with a colossal processor board, a trade off on the speaker will take you starting over from the beginning. Here is a rundown of things you have to pay special mind to when you purchase an electric guitar amp.

The differentiation is simple; every amplifier gives you a different basic sound. It will depend on the type of amp and the brand as well. Even if you look at the same type of amp from two different companies, you’ll notice subtle variations in the sound. Now, if you’re a beginner or you intend to buy an amp for practicing in your room, a more generalized search is better. On the other hand, if you buy a quality amp that you really like, you won’t be needing a new one for a long time.

Types of Amplifiers
If knowing is half the battle, here are the four most common types of amplifiers and their association with music.

Tube Amps

The tube amps are more powerful than a solid-state amp of the same wattage. They provide that organic distortion that most guitarists of a softer genre (softer than metal) prefer. There can be said to be two of these; the American tube and the British tube.

  • The American tube amp is smaller but provides a fresh sound to your guitar. The amp is characterized by its extensive use in Country music and Rock and Roll.
  • The British tube amp provides a larger spectrum of sound frequencies at a more cleaner tone. You shouldn’t buy this one if you’re into raw distortion.

Solid-State Amps

No tubes, only transistors work for this one. The main difference is the cleanliness of sound that you get on the solid-state, as compared to the tube. If you’re not a metalhead, or you like to experiment with sounds, pick this one. The solid-state amp is used wherever clean sounds are necessary, like Jazz and R&B.

Hybrid Amps

They were created with the intent to get the best from the two worlds they were made in. For example, a hybrid amp made with a tube on the pre-amp and a solid-state circuitry for powering the tube gives you the natural distortion effect with more control and at a lower price. Pick a specific type of hybrid amp if you know what genre you’re going to play in and are sticking to it. Its versatility also makes it a good pick for beginners.

Digital Amps

They are the newer type to be sold. A digital amp is mostly computerized. The amp provides you with the optimum control over the output sound and can also give you the widest range in sound output there is. If you have a little extra money and want to experiment the heck out of all sounds, get this one.

Modeling Amps

They are amps (or preamps) that you can use to get the sound of a costlier one for a lower price. Whatever your reason for not having quality equipment may be, you can still sue this one to get the signature tone of your favorite brand.

Knowing the Right Amp

Now that you know which amp fits into which style of music, here are a couple more things to understand before you head out to the store.

Price Range

If you’re a beginner, stick to solid-state amp around $100. Tube amps are costlier and also a lot more fragile. This goes only for the beginner, if you’re really interested in playing for a long time (specifically music with less distortion), I suggest you start saving up for a worthy amp. There’s no use in getting the cheaper ones, you’ll just throw them out in some months and will regret their ever-deteriorating (it happens quite fast, too) sound till then. You will have units ranging from less than $100 to a few thousand. You will also have a universe full of options to choose from.

Wattage

The wattage more or less decides the size and output.

  • The smallest would be the 10 Watt micro amp. You just use it so that you’re heard over the rest of the group who are not using amplifiers.
  • The next one goes up to 30 Watts. It is meant solely as a practice amp, to be kept in your bedroom and not much for other things. All amps up to 30 Watt have a poor output.
  • Anything bigger than 50 Watts would be considered big amps, like the 1×12 or 2×12 amps. The 2×12 amp is the largest that you will need for small to medium gigs, just short of a full blown stage show. If you’re looking to go on tours, you will need stacks, which is multiple (4 normally) 4×12 cabinet amps and a giant 100 Watt head.

Knowing Your Idol

This has a brand angle to buying your amp. We are all, at some point or the other, influenced by someone greater in our field of interests. When you like Joe Satriani, you’ll say the older Peavey JSX or his current Marshall amps are the best. If you idolize Hendrix (like me), you’ll swear by the vintage Marshall stacks behind him. And well, if you think of somebody as your role model, you chances are you will play like them. And there isn’t any problem in doing so, which means using their brand of amps will probably get you to sound like them. Of course, you won’t really play like them, but hey, you can be pretty damn close!

Channels

This is one thing you should read up more on before buying an amp, especially if it’s your first one. If you don’t want get owned by the store helper and buy something out of embarrassment, research on everything these knobs are designed to do. More importantly, you’ll be able to get the right sound right there in the store trial, so you won’t need to keep looking for too many amps. You’ll need to know about things like:

  • Volume knob, which is the basic one that changes the output volume
  • Tone knob, which controls the frequency output on the amp
  • Overdrive, in essence, which is about the distortion that the amplifier can produce (without the help of a processor)

Like I said, knowing is half the battle, so read well on these things.

Materials Used

You should also know about the difference that materials can make on the final output of the amp. Things like the type of wood used, its thickness on the amplifier’s box and the arrangement inside the box. Feel free to ask the store helper about these things, it goes a long way in figuring the perfect amp for you.
That pretty much sums up the whole checklist of things to know and see before and when you buy your amplifier. Just remember that even if you’re set on buying some particular amp, it wouldn’t hurt to go ahead and check all the others out there too, you never know what you’ll find. Now go out there, buy the box an shake the world!