Tips to Repair Your Guitar

Expert guitarists who have been playing for quite a while have aced the specialty of repairing the guitar all alone. Here is a guide which will demonstrate supportive to complete minor running repairs or counteract assist harm before an expert assumes control.

Experts always know their instruments very well. This is the only reason guitarists are able to repair their axes on their own. Guitar repair is not exactly a very difficult or impossible task to manage. Constant handling of the instrument, improvisation of the stringing, tuning and playing greatly help in completing the task. Before we begin, I’ll give you a quick list of the more important tools to have to perform the repairs.

The Kit

A guitarist always keeps a kit full of everything that he needs to maintain and patch up his instrument with. Here are a couple of things that you need to include in your repair kit. Most of them apply to the electric guitar; a lot of things can be done without these tools on an acoustic.

Allen wrenches of the appropriate sizes : They are usually standardized and always come with the electric guitar you buy. Never lose them; they are very important in doing most kind of repairs.

Chromatic tuner : As a rule, when working on the guitars that require the strings to be on, always keep the strings tuned before you start the work. The tuner is a necessity; even if you develop an ear for the notes, the tuner makes for an invaluable reference.

Truss rod wrench : A good tool to have once you know how to use it.

A steel ruler : Just something to help measure the action. After a while of playing, you can decide just how much action you want, so you don’t really need the ruler.

The intonation key : It is the accessory that makes setting the intonation easier on floating bridges. You can still do it without this key. (Both methods explained later)

Tri-Flow® : A quality lube with a needle-point dispenser that makes it easy to apply the lube in small spaces.

You can also get some superglue, polish and oils for maintenance. These things are mostly subjective and can be used once you figure your guitar out from the inside out.


This job comes every 6 months on normal conditions and maintained guitars, if you’re a casual/aspiring guitarist (3 months if you play gigs every night). The difficulty in changing the strings is a direct result of the type of bridge that you use. Most acoustic ones use a non-tailed (fixed) bridge, so they are easy to re-string once you know the basics. Good ones can come with adjustable saddles, which are useful for fine tuning and setting the intonation. I’ve detailed the re-stringing of electric guitars, from which you can associate the logical parallels to the acoustic.

Here’s a list of things you need to be careful about while re-stringing any guitar:

  • Gently straighten out each string between your thumb and index finger when you take it out of its cover. It helps reduce the elasticity of the strings so they don’t pose too much of a problem while tuning.
  • Re-stringing is the perfect time to clean out the places previously difficult to reach. This includes the lower part of the headstock and the spot between the bridge and the pickup/sound hole. Use a clean, lint-free cloth over wider areas and a Q-tip to get to the smaller places, especially the string inserts and the fine-tuning pegs on Floyd Rose trems. Use an old toothbrush to get to the spaces where each fret post meets the neck.
  • The perfect way to wrap the string around the tuning peg on the headstock is by having not more than 2 coils per string. Having more than 2 coils pressures the peg, making it slip. Also, make sure the second coil is inside the first one. This allows the inner (second) coil that leads out to the fretboard to be pressured, thereby catching the outer (first) coil and keeping the string wound tightly over the peg.
  • After re-stringing comes the more important part – stretching the strings. This is an absolute must because it’s the best way to keep the strings from de-tuning in between bends. To stretch them (this is always done after re-stringing and before setting the intonation), all you have to do is pull each string up from the fretboard gently, then letting it rest back on the fretboard. Repeat this until the string feels stressed and less elastic.
  • To be thorough, do this at the 5th, 7th, 12th and 17th frets. Be careful though, you may easily break the strings or cause them to slip out of the bridge.

Fixed bridge

It is the easier type to re-string; a fixed bridge will take less than 10 minutes once you develop a hand for it (excluding the stretching, which takes 10-15 minutes by itself). Align the string into the groove on the saddle and the nut. Poke the headstock end of the string through the hole in the tuning peg, put a sharp bend on the outer side of the string, right on the hole. Start turning the peg to tighten the string. Tune it to the relative note and cut off the excess string on the tuning peg. Remember to leave about an inch or two in case the string slips. Then stretch the string and re-tune.

Tremolo Bridges

This bridge is tougher to re-string than fixed bridges, because it’s not attached directly to the body. The tremolo allows the string to slack easily, creating a major headache to re-string and tune. I’m going to explain the process on a Floyd Rose. Others, like the Edge and ZR trems have almost the same method.

  • Loosen the tuning clamps on the nut.
  • Loosen the string locks on the bridge. Be careful because the stress can launch them out of their grooves.
  • Take the string out from under the tuning clamps on the nut. Avoid scratching the fretboard and the underside of the clamps.
  • Clean off the part where the string enters the bridge. This is a good habit that helps avoid any dirt that might cause the string to lose its grip.
  • The balled-up end on the new string usually goes into the tuning pegs. You can choose to cut it off too; it’s not really needed.
  • Gently slide the strings under the tuning clamps and keep them as straight as possible.
  • Cut off the string that goes beyond the fine tuners.
  • Then ease the open end through the string insert and tighten the lock. Never tighten it more than one rotation. Actually, if you can do that, it means the string hasn’t gone completely into the lock. In that case, take it out and redo.
  • Start turning the peg once you’re sure the locks are on tight. If the other end has been cut off at the proper distance, the string shouldn’t need more than two coils around the peg. After you reach the relative note, stretch the strings and re-tune.

Adjusting the Truss Rod

You’ll need to do this when your fretboard starts arching. The bend on the neck will cause the strings to rise away from the fretboard and become a pain to play properly. As long as you don’t own a classic acoustic, you will have a truss rod inside the fretboard to straighten the neck. (classical acoustics do not have a truss rod installed, but they usually don’t bend because they use nylon strings that don’t stress the neck too much)

The bend can go either way – it can cause the strings to go to close to the frets or to move away from them. Either case is bad; the former will create fret buzz (discussed in detail in the next section) while the latter just makes it harder to play. A simple way to check for the bend is to clamp down the strings on the first fret (using a capo) and then on the last fret with one hand (or have a friend help you out). Slide a piece of paper of some thickness (like a card) through the middle of the fretboard, underneath the strings. If it won’t pass easily, the neck is bent outward (the neck bulges towards the strings). If you can pass the paper through with still some extra space left, the neck is bent inwards (away from the strings). Both can be repaired with the truss rod as shown below.

Remove the cover that lies just above the nut, on the headstock. You need to keep the strings on to check if the adjustment is enough. The truss rod’s nut is underneath this cover. Take the truss rod wrench and turn the nut as follows:

  • If you are looking directly at the truss rod’s nut, you will turn it clockwise to tighten the nut in. This pushes the neck towards the strings and reduces the action.
  • Turning the nut anti-clockwise will loosen the truss rod, causing the neck to move away from the strings.

You must be very careful with this. The truss rod is very sensitive to changes. Rotate the nut as slowly as possible, checking the bend every second. Never turn the nut more than one full rotation in either direction. This is quite a delicate operation and if you are not too confident about it, you should take the guitar to a professional or a luthier who can help you out for the first time. Too much stress on the truss rod will warp the neck beyond repair or even crack and break it.

Locating Fret Buzz

This is an annoying part in guitar repair, mostly because locating the problem can be tougher than the solution. This is to be done if you get an audible (and distracting) buzz when you pluck the string. The solution depends on the location of the buzz.

  • If it buzzes on a single fret, the solution could be anything from resetting the intonation to replacing the individual fret. If the frets are really old and worn out, or have deep dents due to hard play or an accident, you may have to replace them.
  • If you have one or many strings that buzz when played open (on most/all frets), the problem is mostly in the nut. The strings can cut into the nut, lowering their height so they touch the frets. It could also be because the guitar is new and hasn’t been set up properly. If the nut is old, consider replacing it. If the guitar is new, you will have to adjust the truss rod and the intonation.
  • A buzz on all strings in only the upper part of the fretboard means the wood is reacting to the moisture (or lack of it) in the air, creating a bulge closer to the nut due to stress from the strings. You will need to keep the fretboard in optimum humidity to remove the bulge. Worst case scenario would be the upper part gets warped and you need to replace the fretboard.

Resetting Pickups

To adjust the pickup height, simply turn the two screws on each side of the pickup. Turning them anti-clockwise will lower them into the guitar, increasing their distance from the strings. Turning them clockwise will increase the pickup height. Always make sure that the stings are perfectly tuned before you do this, as each string sends different reactions out of the pickup for different tunings. This is the easiest job, but very important to get right.

There are two things you need to know before you can successfully adjust the pickups on your guitar. One is the type of pickups that you are using, which helps in figuring out how you can adjust them and how much of a difference it would make to raise or lower them. The other is your own playing style. It has a major influence on the exact distance of the pickup from the strings.

Simply put, rhythm players need a softer tone with more sustain. A pickup set further away from the strings (relatively speaking) gives you both. The perfect distance would be where the sound is soft enough without compromising on the amplification, while maintaining a good sustain. If the pickup is too far, it won’t catch the vibrations of the string. If it is too close, the magnetic pull won’t let the strings vibrate enough, therefore reducing sustain.

Playing leads and riffs requires a stronger, punchy tone that doesn’t garble up when playing half a step ahead or behind one note. This calls for a pickup that’s set closer to the strings.

The middle point is where blues and sliding fits in. Slides need a decent amount of sustain as well as a clear, strong tone.

Setting the Intonation

You can read ahead and opt to perform this task yourself, but trust me when I say you need a mountain of patience to get it right. Resetting the intonation is an absolute nightmare for even experienced guitar players. Bad intonations are the burden of all fretted instruments tuned with equal temperament. Anyone who has already tried doing this on a Floyd Rose will know what I’m talking about. Anyway, on to the details.

Just like re-stringing, the type of bridge will be the biggest influence on the way the intonation is to be done. The basic job is to make sure each string plays the right note on each fret as it is supposed to. Having the 1st and the 12th frets at the same relative note usually sets things right. You can use a good chromatic tuner to check the notes in between. Always remember to keep the string as closely tuned to the proper note before you begin. Also have the string as stretched out as you can, so it won’t de-tune while you’re setting the intonation.

The process is important if not mandatory, especially if you’re performing with other musicians. By yourself, you can ignore the problem (to a limit). But when you’re playing with others, you will immediately figure out the differences in tuning, making this task as necessary as it is painful.

The whole thing basically goes like this:

  • If we are checking the high E, an E on open and an E flat on the 12th fret, it means the octave on the string is shorter than the same on the fretboard. Push the saddle closer to the neck to shorten the string length.
  • If the E on the 12th fret is sharp, it means the string is too short to fit the octave. So you have to pull the saddle away from the neck to increase string length.

Fixed Bridges

The saddles are usually preset on acoustic guitars (each brand has a rigid saddle at factory settings), so there’s nothing to do on them. To change the intonation, you have to change the action. If the saddles are adjustable, use the screws on the bottom side of the bridge to change the saddle position.

Floating Bridges

Tremolo bridges are where the pain is, especially the Floyd Rose. There are two reasons for this:

Since the bridge is floating, if it is not set to perfect zero, you’ll never get the right intonation.
The intonation lock (small black screw under each string) needs to be set loose, which if done while the string is tight, launches the string lock clamp off its base.

Therefore, the usual way to set the intonation is as follows:

  • Tune string to relative note.
  • Check 12th fret. You now know which way to adjust the saddle using the fine-tuning screw (behind the saddle) and by how much.
  • Completely slacken the string. Loosen the intonation screw.
  • Adjust the saddle. Tighten the intonation screw.
  • Re-tune the string and check for the note on 12th again.
  • Rinse and repeat for each string.

The easy way out is using the intonation key (aka ‘The Key’). There is one for the OFR, then another for a few Edge trems. The problem is, the tremolos aren’t all the same, so the key will also change. If you’re not careful with them, you’ll end up scratching the coat on the bridge. But they do make the job very easy, like so:

  • Clamp the key in as shown in its manual.
  • Check the note on the 12th fret.
  • Tighten or loosen the knob on the key to effectively pull or push the saddle.
  • Set the saddle to the right place and move to next string.

A tool like this does belong in your maintenance kit, provided you got the right one (and a good one; the threading on some pieces can be clumsy, letting the knob slip while you’re turning it). OFR keys are fairly easy to get. The other tremolos with string-locking saddles may or may not have one (ZR trems come with their own intonation adjustment screw).

As you learn more about the hardware, you will be able to do all of this with precision. Not only that, there’s also the whole realm of custom fittings, changing or creating your own inlays, re-polishing the fretboard and body, and so on. After a while, it you will start to realize why a lot of professionals talk about their guitars like their girlfriends!

Tips to Pick the Right Case for Your Guitar

Tip while Flying with a Guitar

Release up the strings before you pack your guitar. This will keep away from superfluous strain on the guitar neck, inferable from steady temperature and weight changes while flying.

Outdoor events, world tours, or even small-scale shows that require a guitarist to travel from one end of town to the other require the instrument to be in optimum shape. Diligently placing your guitar in a case after every practice routine or a show is your safest bet to keep its shiny surface at its optimum best. This rule goes for both acoustic and electric guitars. This just implies that it is up to you to protect your instrument from the elements of nature around you.

A guitar case not just offers great protection to your guitar but also doubles up as a great storage unit that can be easily transported from one place to another. Besides, using a case protects your stringed instrument from accidental breakage and scratches. In short, as a utility item, it is every guitarist’s best buy that will help increase the lifespan of his/her favorite instrument.

Type of Guitar Case
Before you get down to haphazardly picking a case for your instrument, acquaint yourself with the available types.

Hard Cases

As the name suggests, these cases come with a hard outer cover or shell that is ideally made from wood or fiberglass. The interior of the case is padded to restrict any possible movement of the guitar. The padding helps the guitar fit snugly in the cover, and it also prevents scratches and dents. Though a bulky option, it provides optimum protection from accidental falls and casual shocks.

Soft Cases

Soft cases or gig bags are just the opposite of a hardshell case. These lightweight bags are made from nylon and may contain an inner padding for protection. These cases are sure to protect your guitar from minor scratches and dust stains, but prove relatively ineffective when it comes to protecting your instrument from damages. However, these cases are cheaper, and therefore, comparatively popular among most amateur guitarists.

Flight Cases

Flight cases, on the other hand, are heavy-duty cases that are recommended for regular travelers. These cases have a hard outer covering with special internal padding that keeps the guitar safe from potential hazards. These cases come equipped with reinforced metal corners to give you a sturdy box.

Hybrid Cases

A hybrid case is simply a combination of a soft and hard case. It is made of lightweight material that has a soft outer cover with a rigid inner side to hold the guitar in place. It is ideal for musicians who travel a lot.

Your Guitar Measurement

Ensure that you measure up your guitar before making a purchase online. While visiting a store, see to it that you take your guitar along to get a perfect fitting case for your instrument. Always remember, an ill-fitting case is sure to cause more damage to the instrument than external damage. Your guitar should fit snugly inside the case without allowing the fretboard to move, to avoid meddling with the tuning. Otherwise, you could end up damaging it in the process.

Weight of the Case

Take into consideration the amount of weight you are going to be carrying around. It is not just about the guitar but also about the accessories needed for performing which matter, especially while doing a gig. Choose a case that will be easy for you to lug around during shows and practices. Also, ensure that you consider how you are going to be transporting your instrument to and fro; this will help decide on a case that best suits your needs.

Additional Features

When investing in a case for your guitar, ensure it has workable and quality features. Thoroughly check the zippers, locks, and handles to ensure that they are sturdy and will not give way in a short time.

Take a Look at the Varieties on Offer

It is always better to check the different varieties available just so that it helps you shortlist your type. Keep your options open just in case you do not find the type you are searching for, as this will save you from disappointment. Also, ensure you know what material it is made up of, as this will save you the trouble of unnecessary tension later on.

Universal Flat Case

Box Guitar Case

Hardshell Guitar Case

White Guitar Case

Rounded Hardshell Case

Ukulele Case
Last but not the least, check the prices on a couple of sites or stores before you finalize a case for your guitar.

A gig bag or a case, for that matter, is one of the most essential guitar accessories that every guitarist ought to have. It doesn’t matter if you are a professional or an amateur guitar player; the fact remains that everybody ought to have a sturdy case for their beloved six strings.

Acoustic Guitars Top

Music is to the ears, what peace is to the brain. Despite the fact that it is about sound, music is more relieving than quiet, and fills in as a treatment. Acoustic guitar is one such supernatural instrument in the guitar family, that fulfills the desire to determine euphoria, both for its player and additionally the audience.

The list of top 10 acoustic guitars shall always remain debatable, due to the fact that every guitar is made up of a special type of wood, or a combination of fine woods, which make each of it sound unique. Traditionally, guitars made manually are believed to be the best, but the mechanized ones too are getting popular. Consisting of three main parts – the hollow part that has the sound box, the neck that holds the frets and the head that consists of the tuning pegs – acoustic guitars produce heavenly music with every pull of the string whether you like to hear loud or soft melody. Here is a low-down on the top 10 acoustic guitars that are not ranked in order, but just mentioned according to personal preference.

Morgan CCK
Morgan guitars have developed a reputation of manufacturing the best handmade acoustic guitars, started back in 1985 by David Iannone. The Morgan catalog contains a magnificent instrument, by the name Morgan CCK. This guitar is one of the most beautiful instruments to be ever produced by the company. CCK stands for Concert Florentine Cutaway Koa. The fret board of this guitar is made up of ebony while the neck is made up of South American Mahogany. The 6 strings of this guitar are made up of elixir phosphor bronze light-gage strings. The CCK is a box guitar, that has a cut in the lower half of the sound box. The fret board has 20 frets and the wood carries a gloss polyester finish. This combination gives out a clean and clear tone.

Schwartz Advanced Auditorium Acoustic Guitar
This is a Schwartz model, that has plenty of ebony used in its making, which is its specialty. The exceptional tone and the extreme melody helps the player to create beautiful chord and scale patterns accompanied by enchanting arpeggios. Another feature of this guitar is that it has a dove-tail mechanism to join its neck and body.

Matsuda Nylon String Model
This is one of the best examples of classical guitars, that are being produced in the modern era. The nylon string model has an astoundingly beautiful tone playing capacity, and produces beautiful legato. This guitar has a fairly simple construction and is principally made up of spruce and rosewood. People who are addicted to finger plucking of the classical acoustic guitars would certainly find this guitar very exciting.

Gibson Epiphone AJ-500R Masterbilt
This piece is a finer version in the acoustic series of the Epiphone, which gained respect in the 1930s. The Masterbilt, is made up of solid rosewood and has retained the distinctive peghead that boasts of the Epiphone logo and a stick-pin inlay, while it has revived its looks to get a flat top, and advanced jumbo shape that produces a balanced and clear tone. The sides and back of the bottom end are carved beautifully, and the Sitka Spruce top gives out pure acoustic sound.

Martin D-28
C.F. Martin and Co. are said to be the kings of the acoustic guitar industry. Their mastery lies in not only producing guitars that yield the best sound, but also in their artwork of creating one of the most beautiful instruments such as this one, whose construction has remained a standard for large bodied steel-string acoustic guitars since its introduction in 1931. it us made up of solid East Indian Rosewood for its back and sides, while ebony is used for its fingerboard and bridge. It is gloss finished with a solid spruce top and a dovetail neck.

Larrivée OM-03R
The OM-03R, is a beautiful model that has been produced by Larrivée. This six steel string guitar has a beautiful mahogany neck and can churn out spellbinding music. Special care is taken to make it with the best of woods from around the world. The back and sides are beautifully crafted by black toned rosewood, the top is made up of the finest of Canadian Sitka Spruce, while the fingerboard and bridge are made of ebony. It is well crafted to make it light in weight and is preferred by many master guitarists.

Yamaha LL6
Yamaha is one of the biggest and also one of the oldest manufacturers of guitars. Though this is a hand-crafted guitar, it is relatively cheap and affordable, even for beginners. The beauty of this instrument is the simplicity of its construction that is worked upon in a small factory in Japan by master craftsmen. The dreadnought body type is made up of rosewood and the top with solid Engelmann Spruce that is light and provides resonance to the instrument. The dovetail neck made up of mahogany or rosewood, ebony fretboard and bridge, die-cast gold tuners and a hi-gloss finish make this guitar stand out.

Fender GA43SCE
An acoustic masterpiece, GA43SCE, shares the same features as its electric counterparts like the Stratocaster and Squire. The spruce top; resonant body type; back, sides, headstock overlay and a bound fingerboard made up of rosewood; abalone dot inlays and rosette; and the tortoise-shell binding make it an alluring stage instrument.

Seagull S6 Cedar Original Dreadnought
The construction of this guitar is a combination of hand-finished neck, custom polished finish and a solid cedar top. These features provide outstanding sound, which can be tried on by newbies handling a guitar. This model has a three-layered wild cherry lamination, which provides varying sound between a mellow tone of a mahogany guitar and the bright sound of maple. Wild cherry is a locally grown wood in Canada which becomes an ecological choice. Silver leaf maple forms the smooth neck for this model.

Takamine G340
This model comes from the Takamine G series acoustic guitars. Its back and sides are made up of mahogany and has a spruce top. The classic dreadnought body of this model is made up with rosewood fingerboard, dot inlays and gold tuners. The smooth gloss natural finish adds to its appeal.

The guitar as a musical instrument shares a very emotional attachment with its player. Different people maybe comfortable with different makes of the instrument, nonetheless, any of these guitar types and their performers promise to spell magic when they come together.

Types of Guitars

One may get confounded while purchasing a guitar, as there are diverse sorts of guitars to browse. Each of them has a novel shape, size and sound. Perused on to know which of these guitars suits your style.

The different types of guitars vary depending upon the types of strings used, and the shape and size of the guitar. There are basically two types, acoustic guitars and electrical guitars.

Acoustic Guitars
These are the most traditional types of guitars that are most commonly used. They are hollow, large and are made up of thin wood. Acoustic guitars do not use external amplification and are generally used for playing in front of a small audience. Almost every type of music can be played using acoustic guitars, but they are considered best for playing country or folk music. There are different types of acoustic guitars that have different features. These are:

  • Classical Guitar
  • Steel Guitar
  • Twelve String Guitar
  • Bass Guitar
  • Resonator Guitar

Classical Guitars: The strings of classical guitars are made from nylon and they have a wider neck as compared to other types. The sound generated by classical guitar is warm and gentle. Though classical guitars are mainly used for playing classical music (hence the name), all kinds of music can be played on it. They are also used to play Flamenco or ballad music. Classical guitars are also called nylon-string guitars, Spanish guitars and Concert guitars.

Steel Guitars: The way the steel guitars are played is different from other types of guitar and it requires special training. They are played horizontally by placing across the knees of the player or keeping them on their stands. Lap steel guitar and pedal steel guitar are two main varieties of steel guitar. Steel guitars are also known as Hawaiian guitars as this technique of playing originated in Hawaii.

Twelve String Guitars: Almost all types are made up of six strings, but twelve string guitars, as the name suggests, are made up of 12 strings. The strings are paired, in way that each pair is tuned at same note, with one of the string tuned at a higher octave. The arrangement of the strings produces a semi-chorus effect while playing. They are more difficult to play and are also more expensive.

Bass Guitars: The strings of bass guitars are thick and long, and tuning it is considered quite difficult. The number of strings in it can vary between 4 to 6; the four string bass guitar, being the most commonly used. They are used to generate the bass of the rhythm. Both acoustic and electric bass guitars are available, amongst which, electric bass guitars are most commonly used.

Resonator Guitars: Resonator guitars are also called resophonic guitars and were invented to increase the volume of the music generated by traditional acoustic guitar. The resonators, which generate the sound, are made up of metal instead of wood. Resonator guitars are used in bluegrass, country music and blues. They can either be square necked and played in the steel guitar style or round necked and played in the classical guitar style.

Electric Guitars
Electric guitars require amplification to hear the music properly. They have longer necks, and solid or semi-sold bodies. They are connected to amplifiers to amplify the vibrations generated. Electric guitars have control knobs that help fine-tune the strings and generate a variety of tunes. It is always comfortable to play electric guitars as less force is required to press its strings and the method of tuning is very easy. They are used in jazz, rock, blues and pop music.

There are different types of electric guitars that have different features. These are:

  • Solid Body Electric Guitars
  • Chambered Body Electric Guitars
  • Semi Acoustic Electric Guitars
  • Full Hollowbody Electric Guitars
  • Electric Acoustic Guitars

Solid Body: Solid body electric guitars are not hollow like acoustic guitars, but are completely solid. As these guitars do not rely on vibration to produce sound, they can be constructed in such a manner. Solid body guitars rely on pickups, amplifiers and speakers to produce sound. They are made of hardwood, and high-end premium guitars can be made to order with your choice of wood. Solid body guitars ensure that the sound reproduced is of the string vibration only, leading to a cleaner sound reproduction.

Chambered Body: Chambered body electric guitars are made of solid wood but have a few chambers in them that are hollowed out. Such hollow chambers are placed in such a way that it does not hamper the bridge and anchor points on the guitar’s body. Usually the reason for using a chambered body guitar is because of its lesser weight as compared to solid body guitars. Sometimes chambered body guitars may also be used to achieve a sound that is a slight mix of an acoustic and electric guitar.

Semi Acoustic: Semi acoustic electric guitars are built with a hollow body in order to get a more acoustic guitar sound. They are made from thin sheets of wood and are not the same as acoustic guitars. Pickups are used to reproduce sound that consists of string vibration as well as body vibration. Such guitars provide a plain tone and are predominantly used in blues music. They are not as loud as true acoustic guitars, but can be used with the pickup turned off or ‘unplugged’.

Full Hollowbody: Full hollowbody guitars are made of several sheets of wood pasted together, but are completely hollow. They can be termed as acoustic guitars, and they sound and play as loud as acoustic guitars. They fall into the electric guitar category as they have a pickup that can be used to amplify sound and add effects as and when required. They are often played unplugged in enclosed areas. Full hollowbody guitars are also called archtop guitars.

Electric Acoustic: Electric acoustic guitars are actually acoustic guitars that have been fitted with a pickup or a mic (usually inside the body) to amplify the body vibrations produced. Usually there are a number of pickups of various types used in an electric acoustic guitar. The important difference between these and semi acoustic guitars is that these do not use the regular pickups found on electric guitars. Also the pickups used on these is more to capture the body vibration rather than the string vibration.

Best Acoustic and Electric Guitar Brands
If you are looking to buy a guitar , there are many brands available in the market that you can choose from. Depending on how much intend to spend, you can choose the perfect guitar for you. Given below are some of the best brands that offer electric as well as acoustic guitars.

Gibson Fender
Yamaha ESP
Ibanez Martin
Paul Reed Smith (PRS) Guitars Ernie Ball Music Man
B.C. Rich Gretsch
Jackson Peavey
Carvin Epiphone
Hamer Squier
Warwick Charvel
Larrivée Guild Guitars
Takamine Taylor
Samick/ Greg Bennett Line 6
Seagull Avalon
Kramer Ovation
Alvarez Oscar Schmidt
Dean Guitars Tacoma

It is impossible to state a comprehensive list of all types of guitars, but among the less commonly seen but equally loved types are the baritone guitar, baroque guitar, flat top guitar, harp guitar, lap steel guitar, pedal steel guitar, Portuguese guitar, Renaissance guitar, Russian guitar, and the 7-String electric guitar. The difference between them can be well understood after playing each of them. So, go ahead and pick up a guitar of your choice from your nearest musical instrument shop.